Ar. Pe.Pe.

These wines from Ar.Pe.Pe. (an abbreviation of founder Arturo Pelizzatti Perego's initials) are among the most impressive I tasted for this article. From top to bottom, the wines are deserving of serious attention. The super-traditional style will leave lovers of translucent Nebbiolo weak at the knees. Ar.Pe.Pe. releases many of their top wines with a good bit of bottle age, which makes them terrific choices for readers looking for Nebbiolo with the nuances that can only develop over time. Perhaps most importantly, Ar.Pe.Pe. shows just how pedigreed the wines of Valtellina can be. ANTONIO GALLON