Aldo Conterno

As for the 2010s, well they are fabulous. The wines spent over six weeks on the skins and have a classic sense of austerity in their youth that Barolo lovers will adore. ANTONIO GALLONI

If you shake a tree in the Barolo commune of Monforte d'Alba and chances are a Conterno of some persuasion will fall out. At the top of that tree (in winemaking terms at least) are the estates of Aldo and Giacomo Conterno. When there was no room at the home estate (the latter of the aforementioned) Aldo struck out on his own and set about creating his own incredible vinous legacy at Poderi Aldo Conterno. Today the winery is run by his three sons and it's not understatement to say that their set of Baroli (off various sub-plots of the Bussia hill) are as good as they've ever been. Traditional in style they hold the masculinity of the commune in the ferrous-flecked aromatics and structure as well as presenting great terroir specific nuance from the main sub-sites. They are wines from another time and yet timeless. PWS