AGNES et DIDIER DAUVISSAT - CHABLIS

The Dauvissat you will all want when it’s too late - Could Florent Dauvissat be the next great winemaker to bear that famous surname? NEAL MARTIN

I do feel that the average quality at this domaine is slowly rising. The petit Chablis here has always been a standout wine – but these days, it’s not alone! BILL NANSON

As to vintage style for the 2022 whites, for the average wine I would invoke 2015, 2018 or 2020 but, and this is key in my view,
without the excess alcohol levels. This renders them better-balanced than the 2015s or the 2018s and on a par with the 2020s. By contrast, the best 2022 whites could reasonably be compared with the better 2017s with perhaps a bit more mid-palate flesh. Most of the best 2022 whites should be ready within 8 to 12 years and the average example will likely be drinking well by ages 4 to 8. However, because they’re generally so well-balanced, they should actually drink reasonably well young too if that’s your preference.
To my way of thinking, perhaps the best attribute of the finest 2022 whites is just how refreshing they are. In sum, the best 2022s incorporate a bit of everything without too much of anything. BURGHOUND

 

I have been screeching about these for a while now, I think this is the fourth offer of these wines from me. A few years ago I hadn’t heard of the domaine and now they are on my hit list and have crept up to that pile of Rockstars (Kimmeridgian) who I hunt down to drink every year.

Instead of rehashing the same story I have told in the last few instalments, I’ll just reiterate, I believe that Didier is only a very distant relation of his more famous family but he did work and train at that all to famous estate. His internship was under none other than Vincent Dauvissat, and while the styles are very different the quality is remarkable.

Son Florent has worked at the likes of Copain and Mugnier. I have said it before but it bears repeating. While resumes like that don’t necessarily equate to talent or quality, when you taste wines like this and you hear things like that then little pieces click together in your head. It may not always matter but it certainly doesn’t hurt to work with the very best of the best.

The portfolio here is with just the three wines, I will come to the Beauroy in a separate offer. Today I really want to focus on the two wines that I think make this domaine so remarkable.

The first is their Petit Chablis, calm down everyone, yes, I said their Petit. In many ways this is their thing. It is no ordinary Petit, rather the upmarket version. In the last few years I have decided that this is the only Petit I will drink. It genuinely looks like excellent AC Chablis. It has minerality, a chalky texture and plenty of fruit to back it up. I reckon anyone who enjoys Chablis should grab cases of this.

Their AC is another example of a moderate appellation with a significant twist to the storey. This is sourced from a single plot that rises up past the Grand Cru Blanchot, and kind of opposite the legendary Premier Cru, Montee de Tonnerre. It’s prime position for Chablis and especially advantageous for a AC bottling. I have found this to be sizzling and potently mineral. A wine that always looks unmistakably Chablis. It’s a must have for anyone who loves these wines now days.

What really gets me with A & D Dauvissat is their ability to hold freshness zip when while delivering on punch and power too. It’s a captivating combo that reminds me of some of my top tier addresses, and they do it every year. Texture and depth sliced through with a nervosity that sings of Chablis.

That is it, the spiel is done. I hope everyone gets on board, we get a lot of people coming back for these wines now, I always think that’s the best proof of the quality, repeat customers.

Cheers and enjoy
Roscoe