

Ribera del Duero and Rioja are two of Spain’s most prestigious wine regions, both renowned for producing high-quality red wines primarily from the Tempranillo. While they share many similarities, the wines from these regions also have distinct differences due to variations in climate, terroir, and winemaking styles. These two powerhouses of Spain off the drinker a fascinating look at just what tempranillo is all about and the very different expressions from each region.
While Rioja is the king here Ribera has been hot on its heels in the quality stakes for some time. The continental climate in the regions produces a unique version of Tempranillo whose diurnal temperature variation, build rich and complex fruit braced by fresh acidity and firme tannins. The famous clay and limestone soils bring other structural elements to the wines too, lending them a more sturdy and robust framework that is a real counter to the often soft and suave versions from Rioja.
In Rioja a multitude of elevations, sites, and aspects bring an incredible complexity and variation to the wines. Today, a focus on village-specific expression and single-site bottlings at to the mystery and appeal of this wonderful region. Many winemakers are bucking the trends of the past here too and pushing the envelope forcing welcome change and improvement to one of the country's most famous exports.
We have compiled a bit of both here from new-school legends in both regions as well as some classic expressions. It's a brilliant little pack celebrating the diversity not just of the two regions but of tempranillo itself and its many guises. We hope you enjoy.
Valenciso Rioja Laderas de Cabama 2021


Excellent depth and complexity here, showing graphite, pencil shavings, inky blackberries, dark earth funk, black cherries and some roasted spices. Medium to full body with plenty of tight but creamy tannins. Juicy, pretty long and youthful. 100% tempranillo. Better from 2024. ZEKUN SHUAI, JamesSuckling.com
Laderas de Cabama is 100% Tempranillo, crafted from a single plot of 40-year-old vines in Ollauri. It grows on the classic clay/limestone soil of the Rioja Alta. This single-vineyard bottling used to be made in a similar style to Valenciso’s flagship Reserva, in that it was built to age in barrel and bottle before release. From the 2018 vintage, Valenciso has sought to craft Laderas de Cabama in a younger, more fruit-forward style. The fruit is picked a little earlier and the winemaking employs a portion of whole-berry, semi-carbonic fermentation, bringing a more primary, juicy profile.
No new oak is used. Instead, fermentation occurs in cool concrete, followed by 14 months in used French oak barrels. The resulting wine is spicy and rich, with blackberry and plummy fruit, some spice and tobacco leaf notes from the whole-bunch fermentation. It boasts good depth and a tea-scented, full-bodied finish. Great on its own, this will also suit a wide variety of meat dishes.
Roda Sela 2020


Fresh plums and blueberries with scented violets, orange zest and spice. Quite elegant and juicy with a medium body, rounded by tight but silky tannins that are dialed into the fresh berry fruit. Nice grip at the end, without being drying. Drink now. JAMES SUCKLING
Sela is Roda’s younger plantings, established in the late 80s at the inception of the Roda project. These three vineyards are north of Haro towards Villalba. Until now, this great young material was simply sold off on the bulk fruit market. Now, these vineyards are nicely mature and deserving release in their own right, but not yet qualifying as Roda or Roda 1 fruit, thanks to Roda’s insistence that these are only to be old vine (35 years or more) wines. ‘Sela’ maintains Roda’s hallmark of elegance and tannin fineness.
89% Tempranillo, 11% Graciano from sustainable vineyards, crianza of 12 months in used oak. The vines were ‘tutored’ on poles for their first 12 years, then released to be true bush-vines trained ‘en vaso’. The name is not a Rioja reference: Sela is named for the Scandinavian village where owner Mario Rottlant goes for ski holidays.
Badiola Laguardia 'L4GD4' 2018


Badiola, founded in 2018, is a winery based in the heart of Rioja Alavesa which offers a new perspective on Rioja wines: here the emphasis is on site, rather than ageing. The vineyards are situated on the slopes of the Sierra Cantabria, predominantly surrounding the villages of Villabuena, Leza, Laguardia and Baños del Ebro, with each terroir producing wines with distinctive character. The vines are extremely old and low-yielding; many were planted in the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s and they deliver concentrated juice with a clear identity. Vines are planted on hillsides in soils with a high percentage of limestone, a characteristic that sets Alavesa apart from the rest of Rioja, together with high altitude and vineyard age. The winemaking philosophy is to obtain very pure, fresh and well-textured wines that reflect their origin.
In the heart of Rioja Alavesa one of the most incredible (and certainly the most underrated) wine regions in the world. The Cabezadas refers to the hilltops where the Viura is typically planted.
An elegant wine with a fresh and subtle nose, and pure aromas of stone fruit with a touch of white flowers and lanolin. Light and crisp on the palate, yet with good fruit concentration and a dry, tremendously mineral, salty finish.
Casa Rojo Ribera del Duero Tinta Fina Tempranillo 2019


100% Tinto Fino, from the towns of Villálvaro, Sotillo de la Ribera, Moradillo, Hontoria, Peñafiel, Quintana del Pidio, Anguix and Curiel de Duero. Average altitude of 850 to 900 meters, all in the province of Burgos and Valladolid. The grapes come from old vineyards between 35 and 100 years old. In French oak barrels for 428 days, having undergone malolactic fermentation in barrels for 10% of the final blend.
Smashed red and black fruits with that blue-note hit and spicy oak to top it off and little highlights of smokey, leather notes make for a heady and complex nose. Again, plenty of concentration for the mixed, wild berry fruit profile but never at the lack of freshness or energy. Firm but plush tannins grip the black fruits plastering them to the palate and driving home to a full and rich finish. Definitely see some oak here but it suits the style perfectly. PWS
Earthy, underbrush aromas with hints of fig, raspberry compote, cherry and herbal overtones. Bursting with red plum, spice and a mouthwatering layer of sour fruit. Peppery tannins and a toasty, warming finish. DECANTER
Antidoto Tempranillo 2020


Lots of thyme-like herbs and spices on top of the dark plums, dried strawberries and cherries. Medium-to full-bodied and dense on the palate, with lots of tight tannins tucked into the fresh red fruit. Fruity, medium-length finish. Chewy and tight now, but will come around in two years. Better in 2024. JAMES SUCKLING
Antidoto is barely made – given the lightest, cool, simple and short fermentation in concrete vat (fermentation finishes off skins once a certain density is realised). Maturation is gentle and matter-of-fact, in clean old 600 litre barrels for 10 months. 70% of the fruit is from very old vines (there is no white fruit in this blend), and stems are excluded. Bertrand is trying to render old vine character as deftly as possible, in particular to avoid over-extraction and excess concentration: “avoiding the tannin avalanche”. The wine is filtered lightly, and not fined.
Dominio del Aguila Picaro Tinto Fino 2021


The 2021 Pícaro del Águila, sourced from old vines in La Aguilera, Ribera del Duero, has a light garnet appearance. The nose offers enticing notes of sour cherry and a hint of blood over dried flowers. Light and lean, the chalky texture and faintly juicy palate lead to a compact, flavorful, lasting fruit finish. This is reminiscent of a Burgundy in its weight and overall feel. JOAQUIN HIDALGO, Vinous